We landed in Edinburgh, Scotland, following a ten-day tour of Ireland as described in Ireland: Part I and Part II. Scotland was a “DIY” driving tour (but in an upgraded Mercedes sedan, thanks to Avis), following a series of precooked hotels. I’d wanted to travel unbound by commitments, but early planning found such a limited choice of accommodations, I changed my mind. I was glad I did. “No Vacancy” signs were everywhere.